This is a little step-by-step on how to replace the waterpump seals on the YFZ450.

Part #'s first:

Bearing~93306-00105-00 (B6001)
Large oil seal~93102-11008-00
Small oil seal~93102-12106-00 (SD-12-22-5-HS)
Impeller~5GR-12458-00-00
Side case gasket~5TA-15462-00-00

If you smell anti-freeze or see anti-freeze around the frame or the skid plate on the right side of the quad (sitting on it) more then likely the seals for the waterpump need to be replaced and the impeller is scored which caused the seals to fail.



Location of the waterpump.



You must remove the engine oil and drain the anti-freeze at least out of the waterpump housing....you don't need to drain the entire cooling system.

You must also remove the upper and lower oil lines in order to remove the side case.



First, remove the waterpump cover, oil filter cover, oil filter and upper and lower oil lines. Be careful, there's a small o-ring on the lower oil line and make sure it's reinstalled when you put everything back together.



Remove the side case that houses the impeller, oil seals and bearing.



Just a pic of what the motor looks like with the side case removed.




Remove the impeller and inspect the impeller shaft for "grooves". Replace as necessary. To remove the oil seals pry the outer one out with a screwdriver. Removing the bearing is probably the most difficult part of the job. I tapped it out from the outside in using a screwdriver and then pryed the inner seal out.




Use some lithium grease on the seals when reassembling everything and when the seals get reinstalled....the springs face AWAY from each other or basically the springs are in the fluid...oil and anti-freeze.

Torque everything back to specification according to the service manual.

was your impeller bad, i have been told that the shaft will be bad also, what did you replace?

I replaced everything...my impeller ahaft was scored which caused the outer seal to go bad.

I just got the seals....Should i get the bearing and impellar shaft too...or u think ill be alright just replacing the seals?...

The bearing is probably OK but inspect the impeller shaft for scoring...if you can feel grooves in it it may be a good idea to replace it.

Cool, i happened to be at the dealer and thought id pick up the stuff to fix the leak and thought id only need the seals. I had to order them and barely got them yesterday. I didnt want to go back and order more stuff and wait. I wanted to do it today. oh well, ill check for grooves, hopefully not though. Thanks

do they make a hi flo impellar like the ones for the banshee?

Do you think the warrenty will cover this?
How much did you guys spend on this?

YFZATEREGO, thanks for the post, great info. I just completed the rebuild last night. I just need to put oil and coolant along with the header back on and I'm ready to ride. I went ahead and replaced everything in there, the seals, bearing, shaft, impeller and of course the case gasket. It totaled $132 parts and $64 for header gasket, oil, coolant and oil filter and and took about 2 hours.

If it's within 6 months (I think that's what the factory warranty is) Yamaha should cover it.


PHXDUCWI....glad this write-up helped you out...that's why I do them.

Could someone please tell me what the torque specs are for the impeller and the sidecase bolts, I havne't got a manual yet. Thanks

the one torgue that you are really going to have to know is for the TOP oil line don't over tighten or you will be in trouble. i'm dealing with that now...

I replaced the seals and bearing and am still getting a constant drip??

Did you replace the impeller shaft? If not, did you make sure it's not scored?

If you replaced everything and it's still leaking did you make sure the springs on the seals were facing away from each other and they are towards the fluid? Did you use some lithium grease on the seals before you installed them?

Thanks for the reply.
Yes, I replaced the shaft. I used some lithium grease on the inside of the seals where the shaft would be.
The seals...? I am sure I put them in the right way. I think? I put them in the way they came out. I think? Now I am thinking I put them in backwards. That would also allow coolant to get in the oil if I put them in backwards, right?
Crap! I am hoping to make to a race next weekend in Miami. If I did put them in backwards, are they salvagable? After install I ran it at an idle for quite some time to heat to temp.A couple passes around the property and back to the barn. I saw the coolant right away.

Thank's again for the help.

edit: tore it apart this morning and found I had the outer seal in backwards. Popped it out and flipped it over. Problem solved. :)
Awesome site!

Hey alter, did you buy the stuff from Bob at magnolia tractor? Just wondering how much the kit alone was.
Thanks

I actually got it from www.dgy.com

It wasn't a kit...I just pieced it together from the parts diagram. $50 or so including shipping.

Awesome information. I tried this rebuild over this last weekend only to go from a slow drip from the weep hole to almost a spray when I revved it up. From the sounds of it I have installed the seals backwards (all 3 times I have reinstalled trying to fix it again). So tomorrow I will turn them both around and hope that my problem is solved. To bad that last 3 days I have been looking for this info online GOOGLE has not sent me to YFZCentral.

Also, I believe 93102-12106 has been superceeded by 93102-12321, just FYI.

14 ft. lbs for this oil line into the side case and
13 ft. lbs. for the other 2 bolts on this same hard oil line.
10 ft. lbs. for the impeller on the shaft.
5.8 ft. lbs. for the oil line bolt into the lower side case.
7.2 ft. lbs. for all other side case bolts and oil filter and water pump covers related to this repair.

Ok I know there are many of you who have had the water pump seal problem so hasn't anyone really thought why this happens? How does the shaft become damaged? My theory is that dirt/debris enters through the weep hole and causes the premature ware. I have now done the seal replacement 2 times in less than 12 months. I haven't ridden very much over the time period so I can't say that it is a use issue. I was thinking about tapping the weep hole and plugging it with a threaded plug. Has anyone done this?

So r those parts update from Yamaha or an aftermarket parts?

OEM parts.

So it is like an update from Yamaha?

Not sure what you're asking. I know Yamaha updated the parts a while ago (not sure what they updated, maybe the seals) but if you go to www.dgy.com and look at the break-down for the waterpump you can get all the parts there. That's what I did...I just provided stock numbers for the tutorial when I ordered my stuff.

this may sound stupid, but why exactly do you have to take the entire crankcase cover off? why cant you get to everything just from the water pump cover?

To get to the inner oil seal and to get the impeller shaft out.

I ordered the parts using the number's Duane had up and they were still the same. At least I hope their the same!!!!! I guess I'll find out when I tear it apart!

I could just scream. For some stupid reason I never thought to look here first for this how too. I posted a few questions at another forum thinking that they would have the answer since they all do motor mods over there, boy was I wrong. The answer I found with the search function was a link to this thread. Now I can get back to being mad at the stupid quad. Oh and it looks like I will be off to the dealership for a water pump shaft. This leak pissed me off for a 2006 quad with lower hours on it.

And to think...I only made this tutorial because I got tired of reading topics asking what the part numbers were.

Glad you found it and it seems the little things always kick our ass.

Mine started leaking the other day but it doesn't leak when the quad is running, just for about a minute after i shut it off. It took it apart and the shaft isn't scarred or anything. Is this normal?

Just wanted to say thanks or the tutorial. It worked out well. I did it w/o taking off the exhaust or brake lever. Took me maybe an hour or so. Very easy fix.

My shaft was scored very badly. That was definetly the problem. All fixed now. Thanks again.

Awesome write up. I used it to replace mine. Thanks!

My friend (cchrider) is outta town and has no internet access.. He called and wanted me to ask, is that every part you need to replace this? 'cause we have a race this weekend and he's gonna order it tomorrow.. so he wanted to make sure it was everything he needed before he ordered it..
Thanks

Yes...those are the part numbers...even the case gasket in case you tear the original one.

Well first of all this is really helping me. Im 17 and do all the work on my own bike. This is my first run around with the waterpump seals. Well I had the side case unbolted and being dumb figured out that it wont come off unless I pull the foot peg and nerf bar off. This is a REALLY stupid question, but how do you get the damn brake lever off lol. I cant get it off to pull the case off. Also, my impeller shaft is scared alittle, do I REALLY need to order a new one? I have already ordered the parts while i was off on vacation and did have it apart (another stupid move, should have tore er' down first).
Thanks again for the write up!

Brake lever should come right off once the foot peg is removed. You may have to pry on it from the back-side. As far as the scoring on the shaft...if it were me I'd replace it. The scoring leads to an inadequate seal around the shaft.

I still find this funny that when I was doing this write-up I thought it would be useless...I really only did it because I was tired of reading questions about what the part numbers were.

I'm glad it helped a few out.

alright, thanks again alter

Make sure you take the bolt ALL the way out...other wise if it's like the shifter , it won't come off.

Ok this is what happened,was riding it like i stole it header came lose motor got hot, colant leaking and buff of white smoke comes out when u stabb the throtle
? is the impeller reverse thread,cause i cant get it to break lose motor just keeps turing over even in gear
any help would be great ty

yes, reverse.
Someone asked why it happens? I would say heat.
The parts are not THAT tough. LOL! There is a lot of heat with these engines.
I know when mine went, the red light had come on. I later found out my radiator was packed full of mud and the leak was a constant drip. I came here for the fix. :)

Ok, I finished getting the sidecase off. I pulled the outer seal out and I was working on the inner seal and the bearing. Well i noticed a couple parts that I didnt see listen. There is a couple little shims or sleeves. I guess one rides in the bearing or on the shaft?? And there was a little circular spring looking thing??? Which I ended up messin up when I pulled it apart. Also, alter how long did it take you to recieve your parts from that place? I ordered them Last monday and still havnt recieved them.

That spring is whats in the seals.
There should not be any shims or spacers. Sounds like the guts of the seal?

If you ordered the parts from DGY they are slow to ship the parts out...good prices but slow shipping.

There are two guide pins that line up the cover...maybe those are the shims or sleeves you're talking about????

Do you have a pic of the spring?

I will try and get one tomorrow if I have the camera. My dad went out of town and wont be back until sunday and Im not sure if he took the camera or not. But it could be part of the seal because I kind of tore that seal up pulling it out. And I think those shims may go in the side case to help line it up like you said.

where else could I order these parts?? It is going on 2 1/2 weeks. I've missed a race because of this also. And I have called them about 4 times and I always get some acuse like well call this number and call tomorrow and things like that. Every excuse except for where are the parts. I called yoshimura about a week after I ordered my parts from dgy and recieved them yesterday. Im sorry but this is rediculous. So does anyone know where I could order them from? I had that bob and magnolia tractor is out because that is where I used to order my parts.

I've never had a problem with DGY....if something is on backorder they usually call me and tell me and give me the option to have the parts that they do have shipped and then ship the backordered part later.

My other source for OEM parts is www.mrcycles.com

Well I understand about parts being back ordered and problems coming up. But what is stressful is when I do call to check up on it and you call 4 times and I get some type of excuse except for an answer then i do get upset. But hey man thanks for the other website. I was looking and im gonna have to go ahead and order a new shaft also along with new cluthes so I'll check out that new website.

You think thats bad, I've been waiting on my top end parts now for over two weekes :( Today would be great to do it as it is the 4th and no work. :)
But, no...

Where's my gun?

working on the g/f's 450 right now doing this. thanks alterego for the write up and thanks PDR for the parts!

Just wanted to add,

When you check the shaft for scoring, be aware that it will look bad, even when sometimes its not. Even when its in good condition it will be impregnated with the seal material and it will feel and look like its scored. Do this, before replacing the shaft, clean it with a scotchbrite pad and then inspect it. I attached mine to a drill, "polished" it with the scotchbrite, and then compared it to a new one and it was identical, like new.
Not that the shaft is expensive, but in my case the seal was available from my local shop, but not the shaft, and I had to order it, wait for it to arrive.....